Liced brown is an enigma. We do not really know when he appeared: some plead for the court of Louis XIV – this gives it luster -, others for Renaissance Italy – a little rustic chic – others still for Lyon in the XVIe century – confluences always taste good. Only truth, we are on a historical gluttony that does not balk at sugar. But this acme of the confectionery is also the metonymy of the new law of the kinds which begins to govern our lives if not our plates: this chestnut is indeed a chestnut – we do not know if the dictionary would propose henceforth to designate it by the pronoun. The proof that what we believed to be out of date can unknowingly become the height of the hype.
It is also necessary to want to take in the mouth this caloric discharge so strong that one is generally satisfied to nibble one or two of them at the end of the meal – dietetic heresy if there is one. Also remains that purists swear by those produced in Ardèche. It is here, in fact, in 1882, in Privas, that the young Clément Faugier created the first company of candied chestnuts, chestnut trees present in numbers and a helping silkworm breeding crisis. Since then, nothing has changed in the 16 stages leading the rustic chestnut to become a frozen curiosity – and the Faugier establishments continue their martingale of success – 23.90 euros for twelve, when the biggest names in pastry and confectionery also offer their Patrick Roger glazed chestnut – 39 euros for 8 pieces – to Pierre Hermé – 24 euros for 6 pieces.
Promise of protein intake
Faced with this caloric monument, resistance was gradually organized. For a long time, it was played either on abstinence – an iced chestnut or nothing – or on a chocolate or fruity alternative – the candied fruit to remain a cousin of taste or fruit paste. And then, in a movement of transgression of borders, the energy balls long reserved for sports fields in the form of a bar have landed in urban life.
L’energy ball ? A promise of protein, fiber, vitamins, rhyme with organic, even with vegan. Small bites made from very fatty ingredients – dates, almonds, nuts – and flavored with matcha, cocoa or coconut. A side made at home in a food processor that can occupy the youngest if not to treat them. A serious option therefore for calm and happy moments with the family. Promise an iced chestnut as a reward.
Our Christmas duels
Are you an oyster or a lobster?
Are you a flavored salmon or tarama?
Are you champagne or Christmas beer?
Are you a chicken or a capon?
Are you dauphine or mashed sweet potato?
Are you a foie gras in jelly or a vegetable pie?
Are you an ice cream log or a cream log?
Are you Sauternes or Sake?
Are you candied chestnuts on energy balls?
Are you Saint Môret or Brillat-Savarin truffle?
Are you blini or toast?
Are you fond of bottarga or pressed caviar?
Are you a panettone or a log?
Are you a papillote or a chocolate truffle?
Are you petits fours or babka?
Are you whiskey or limoncello?